Thanks once again to Toni Hunter for additional research on the Gytes of Byrom House.
For the last 6,000 years or so, give or take a few hundred, people in Britain have been enclosing space and buildings with walls and fences, using whatever material was locally abundant. Before that, although they might have recognised the idea of a territory, our ancestors were basically nomadic, and had no need to divide space. They lived in temporary camps and shelters before moving on to the next hunting ground – this was from about 700,000 BCE, so for most of human existence. Around 4,000 BCE people began to settle down to farm the land and domesticate animals and at the same time they built divisions – field boundaries, walls around their settlements to keep out wild animals and intruders.
For some time I have been interested in why we build walls, why we feel the need to mark out space and to keep things and people in or out. Walls send out signals – perhaps as a warning not to enter private space, or announcing that you are entering a place with a particular function. During lockdown I became interested in walls that no longer enclose anything, where the building or space they once surrounded has disappeared, walls that have lost their purpose – what I call shadow walls. I mentioned one them in an earlier blog – the circular wall outlining the demolished Christ Church Chapel in Ancoats – and this blog is about another three, in Levenshulme, Portwood in Stockport, and Gorton.
Looking across Barlow Road from St Mark’s Church in Levenshulme is a stretch of pale sandstone wall. The wall is solidly built and quite unlike anything nearby. It surrounds the garden of house built in the 1950s or 60s, but the wall is clearly older. The clue to its origins is found in the nearby Byrom Parade – the wall is all that remains of Byrom House and its land, a substantial property that from the 1830s to the early C20 covered Byrom Avenue, Field Bank Grove and Bourneville Grove and stretched between Green Bank Park and Mount Road, then called Back Lane.
Photographs from the late C19 show a house with prosperous owners. The tea party in particular shows a snapshot of the class differences at the time, with two expensively dressed women taking tea, served by a uniformed maid, while a younger woman fixes her stare on the camera. The gardens are extensive and well maintained and the house itself is covered with climbing plants. Another picture of the garden shows rustic pathways with branches bent to form arches.
It is possible to piece together some of the story of the house from a variety of other sources. It may have been built as early as 1838 by a Mr Gyte and remained in the Gyte family until at least 1906 – some of the women in the tea party photo are from the Gyte family. By 1911 the house was occupied by a builder called Thomas Mattinson, who was almost certainly responsible for the construction of the terraced housing on his land and he presumably eventually demolished Byrom House. By then Levenshulme was sharing in the changing from a semi-rural village to a suburb of Manchester with a number of factories and mills. Families like the Gytes would no longer have been living in the area.
The Gytes made their money as corn merchants in partnership with Thomas Lomas of Alderley Edge. Lomas and Gyte were based at 102-104 Oxford St in Manchester, and although George Gyte left the partnership in November 1883, George was presumably wealthy enough to retire or perhaps move on to other business ventures. In the photo from 1890 George is the elderly man (in fact only in his early 60s at the time) sitting outside Byrom House with a long white beard, so perhaps retirement was more likely. George died aged 78 on 17th March 1906, leaving the considerable sum of £2,950 3s 11d in his will (approximately £360,000 in current value). An account of his funeral, which was unusually held in both St Andrew’s Church (probably St Peter and St Andrews) in Levenshulme and Fairfield near Buxton (where he was buried), provides a more colourful picture of his character and life. “Mr Gyte was for a period of about sixteen years a member of the old Levenshulme Local Board, and was its chairman for three years. He fulfilled almost every lay appointment in the church and schools, having been churchwarden, school manager, treasurer of the day and Sunday schools, and trustee of the patronage of the church. He was also president of the local Sick Nursing Association.” George’s connection to the church would explain why there is a memorial window to the Gytes in St Peter and St Andrew’s. We also learn about George’s political affiliations. “He was an ardent Conservative, proud of the fact that he possessed a copy of the first issue of the ‘Manchester Courier’, and had never failed to obtain a copy of the paper, weekly and daily, since.” George was clearly man of some local standing and shows the middle class sense of duty to the community, and the paper notes the “crowded congregation at the service”, with members of the local District Council in attendance.
The second shadow wall is marooned in the middle of the Portwood roundabout. The building that once stood in the middle square enclosure must have been substantial, but now nothing is left apart from the low, well-made, stone walls – the empty space inside is filled with scrub and weeds. The walls can be reached through the underpass, and although neglected there are display boards that provide some of the story of the site.
Between 1848 and 1955 the Brunswick Wesleyan Methodist Chapel stood inside the walls. When the chapel was built the area was densely populated with rows of terraced housing, and mills crowded the banks of the nearby rivers Tame and Goyt, providing ample employment. As the aerial photograph shows, the area was decimated by later developments – most of the housing is long gone and both Brunswick chapel, plus its adjacent school, and St Paul’s Church (shown in the aerial photo) were demolished. The walls of St Paul’s are also still visible, and what remains of the its churchyard is relatively well maintained. Sadly the graveyard at the chapel has been neglected, despite attempts to raise money for its restoration.
A postcard from the late C19, complete with the local people posing for the camera leaning nonchalantly against the wall, shows us the original appearance of the chapel. The chapel was built in the Victorian Gothic style and was described in the 1870s as being “an ornament to the locality”. The walls are topped with iron railings which were presumably melted down, perhaps during World War II, when it was common to use railings to make munitions. In the graveyard many monuments are visible. The site is home to about 2,600 burials, but the monuments went with the chapel in 1955, probably broken up and turned into hardcore for building.
The chapel was built at a cost of £2,530 in 1848 and opened for worship in March 1849 with seating for 770 – the chapel was certainly serving a local need. A detailed account of the background to the building of the chapel and its opening, was written by Rev H. Jutsum in 1876 to celebrate the jubilee of the nearby Tiviot Methodist chapel (Jubilee memorial being the historical sketch read by the Rev. H. Jutsum at the celebration of the jubilee of Tiviot Dale Wesleyan Chapel, and including a brief history of Methodism in Stockport – 1876). Tiviot Dale Chapel served a wealthy Methodist congregation who felt that “in order to provide for the children of all the schools being taken to public worship in some chapel every Sunday, as well as to supply the spiritual necessities of the inhabitants of these localities in general, it was proposed to build a good chapel in Portwood”. The aim was to raise £6,000 for three chapels in Stockport, but “the first in importance was Portwood, which, with the contiguous district of Newbridge Lane, included a population of upwards of five thousand souls; but which, except a small chapel built by the New Connexion [a Methodist splinter group], was then destitute of a regular place for public worship”.
The laying of the foundation stone on 8th May 1848 was marked with great ceremony, the 1876 account again giving a detailed list of those processing to the site. “It was arranged that those friends who felt desirous of being present should meet at Tiviot Dale School, where a procession was formed which moved to the ground in Portwood, in the following order: – Manorial Beadle, Borough Police Constables, Manorial Constables, Superintendent of Police, the Mayor and Magistrates, the Circuit Stewards, Ministers and Stewards, Trustees of the Chapel, Church Extension Committee, local Preachers and Leaders, members and friends of the Society, three abreast, officers, teachers, and scholars of Tiviot Dale School, officers, teachers, and scholars of Newbridge Lane School…” The sense of precedence, class and power give the impression of an almost feudal retinue leading its way to the chapel site!
The foundation stone was laid by one of the Aldermen, James Marshall of Brinnington Mount who received “a splendid silver trowel in the name of the Trustees” as a souvenir. Hymns were sung and the meeting was addressed by the local MP James Heald and the mayor. Finally “a tea meeting was afterwards held in the Portwood Wesleyan School room, at which five hundred persons were present.”
Visiting the site now it’s hard to picture what it was once like. Little of the original housing has survived and Portwood is now dominated by a retail park and cut through by the M60. But 170 years ago it was thriving community, and the opening of the new chapel must have been an event of great importance to the local people.
Finally, a wall in Gorton. A few months ago we hosted some visiting speakers from the Manchester and Stockport Canal Society. They gave an interesting talk about a now lost waterway that connected the Ashton Canal to Stockport. Built in the 1790s, the canal passed Houldsworth and Broadstone mills, ending up near Nelstrop’s Albion mill at the top of Lancashire Hill. When it was built none of these mills had opened, so there was an element of speculation behind the project, but in time it must have become a valuable asset to the local entrepreneurs. Generally the canal would have been used for ferrying goods to and from the mills, but it was also used for more unconventional purposes. William Houldsworth, during the building of St Elisabeth’s Church in Reddish, transported the marble columns by canal – for the last part of their journey, from the canal to the church, they were carried on wagons pulled by elephants from Belle Vue zoo! It was also possible to take a passenger boat down the canal from Stockport to Manchester, but as the journey took two hours it seems unlikely to have been particularly popular. By the 1960s the canal, like so many others, was in a state of disrepair, and it was since completely filled in.
One of my trips of local exploration during lockdown was to find remnants of the canal. A few weeks ago I mentioned Broadstone Bridge, built in the early C20 over the canal. And in Gorton, near the cemetery and parallel to the top of Gorton Road, is a stretch of the old stone wall that separated the canal from nearby housing. Within the wall the line of the old canal is clearly visible and is now a footpath. Like the other walls described, there are few clues to its original purpose, but all were markers of space, visibly displaying what were once important divisions. All three now seem almost out of place, but although they are not of wide historical importance they tell stories, adding to our patchwork understanding of the community in which we live and illuminating the changes it has gone through during the last century and a half.